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@revemup
SubscriberThe Bike is 2005 Banshee.
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@venmc
AdministratorGood news is its likely a ground short once you find it its cheap and easy to fix. Bad news is finding it. There are two places this is likely to happen and a third possible place. First place I would look is the line going to the turn signals. They go through the swing arm and because of the movement they could rub through. The next place to look is the switches/wires in the handlebars. If that checks out go into the headlight everything gathers there and it a possible suspect. My recommendation is to take to to a shop that does auto electric. MC guys are notorious for not knowing jack about finding shorts.
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@revemup
SubscriberStephan/Venmc
Thank you for the response…..I should receive a new right rear turnsignal (the one that stays on in the double element bright mode, when everything else shuts down,) Thurs. 8.21.14….the one I am replacing looks like it has burn marks in the interior reciplical. Will start tracing wires as you have described…..do not know about taking to an AUTO electrical shop…sure they would probably understand the short….but their getting to it might be a a disaster…
Rob/Revemup
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@venmc
AdministratorThe trick is to find the short. I’ll get Jim (head Janitor) to chime in.
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@revemup
SubscriberSTEPHAN/VENMC,
THANKS, LOOK FORWARD TO ANY INPUT/ADVICE JIM/HEADJANITOR CAN GIVE….THIS IS A REAL PAIN IN THE ASS…….I JUST DO NOT HAVE A CLUE OTHER THAN WHAT STARTS THE SEQUENCE OF SHUT DOWNS….THE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL/RUNNING LIGHT LOCKS INTO THE DOUBLE ELEMENT MODE WHEN USING EITHER HAND OR FOOT REAR BRAKE DEVICES????
PLEASE NOTE THIS IS NOT AFFECTING THE IGNITION…. BIKE RUNS GREAT JUST NO LIGHTS ETC WHEN THE RIGNT TURN SIGNAL/RUNNING LIGHT GETS STUCK. ALL I HAVE TO DO IS STOP, SHUT EVERYTHING DOWN FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES THEN I AM SET TO GO AGAIN FOR A FEW MILES…..THIS IS A REAL B***H AT NIGHT!!!
ALSO PLEASE NOTE I HAVE REMOVED LIGHT BULB FROM THE AFOREMENTIONED TURN SIGNAL AND IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE PROBLEM GOES ON AS DESCIBED ABOVE WITHOUT THE BULB..?
ROB/REVEMUP
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@headjanitor
EditorI’ve seen those turn signal sockets short out and cause havoc to the turn signal module. The socket will look fine but will be shorted internally. Swap out the turn signal and add dielectric grease to the socket before installing the bulb. Also, before replacing the turn signal pull the T/S module and check the micro fuses.
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@revemup
SubscriberJim,
Thank you for the input……are you talking about the three 15 Amp Breakers/fuses in the control box or actual fuses in the turn signal module. They would have to be extremely small?
All of the turn signals work fine until I use the rear brake mechanisms repeatedly over a couple of miles……..foot or handlebar lever…….then the right side TS locks into the brake mode….full on both elements bright….and the sequence of shut downs begins.
Rob/Revemup
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@headjanitor
EditorThere are 5 small fuses on the turn signal module (Smart Flash). Check the 5 amp fuses. Also check your brake light switches. the small one in the hand control sometimes moves slightly out of place and sticks. The rear hydraulic switch should have the flag connecters cleaned and checked to make sure they are tight when reconnected.
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@revemup
SubscriberJim,
Thank you for taking the time to help….I am faily competent with the mechanical issues, but not electrical.
Is the Smart Flash module inside the black control box attached to the rear wheel splash guard….I thought I saw it, a silver box…but did not see any fuses attached… are they inside the silver box itself.
I will start by installing the new turn signal as soon as Kirk delivers, hopefully by 8.23
If that doesn’t solve the problem I will move through yours an Stephan’s/Venmc’s recommendations.
I sure hope I do not have to go back into the Black box…was there before replacing the relay and 30 AMP main breaker,had to remove starter etc to get to it…it seemed easier that removing rear wheel, fender, splash etc
Rob/Revemup
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@revemup
SubscriberHey Guys,
Finally solved the problem….It was the “Smart Flash” unit inside the control box. Jim you told me to check the fuses….they were ok…but the wiring inside the box was all melted together….the fuses DID NOT DO THEIR JOB???/
Contacted Radiantz in Oregon…great gal named Davida….got a new “Smart Flash II” unit – $89.00 plus shipping sent to me….installation was fairly easy just unplugged old unit from wiring harness connector…wiring down line from connector was ok….put MC back together with a new right side turn signal and SHAZAM! I WAS BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN….
Thanks to Stephan/Venmc and Jim/Headjanitor for all the help!
PS : See other topic I have submitted requesting headlight manufacturer and vendor…..mine is a pile of S*&#! Works but is not right….would like to get another!
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@venmc
AdministratorNice! The heat coming off the motor heats up the key box pretty good. Chances are it was kind of working but you were slowly melting the rest. The lesson is if something weird starts happening with your electrical, chase it down… before you see flames/smoke. Now you are an electrical expert. 🙂
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@revemup
SubscriberStephan/Venmc…..I checked the three 15 amp breakers in the key box…they were ok but replaced them anyway…you are right. the box gets hotter that Hellcoming off the back barrel.
Thanks again to you and Jim/Headjanitor….great to know you guys are out there and care.
Rob/Revemup
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@bluesman
SubscriberHad a similar problem, turned out to be the brake switch [right side handlebar housing] Any harley dealer has the switch. The contact erodes after a period of time.Good idea to cover housing when washing your bike,good luck. charlie g.
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@revemup
SubscriberThanks Charlie/Bluesman….it turned out to be the flasher unit inside the control box…..brake switch in R. handlebar was OK.
Rob/Revemup
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