Home › Forums › Parts & Technical Info › The Flasher Box!!!
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September 19, 2016 at 3:50 pm #3558
OMG, you guys were clever, I had to replace my rear tire so while I had it off I opened up the flasher box to replace my starter relay. Well the good news is if anyone is wondering what it is in the box on a raider you can buy a new one here…
Click to access Smartflash%20with%20TaillightsHS.pdf
I guess Cadentech.com still makes them also,,,not sure yet.
Anyway I carefully replaced the relay with a 40amp putting the wires onto the same legs as I removed the old one and the stinking starter button still does not work. there is a little metal can with live wire on one side and the other side has wire going to the relay. What is that called? (I think it is a 30 amp breaker and I need to replace it. I routed the Breaker and the relay so they are not in the flasher box anymore. I can get at them to change them easily now. I have a push button on the starter that so far is working good on one of those 1.75kw starters so the bike is usable, I just figured I would give the button a try while I had it apart. Oh the part # for the flasher is 180012-0001 Rev C.loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 20, 2016 at 5:00 am #3559Now for the bad news.
Everything was working great. I got the rear tire on and lined up perfect ๐ . Bled the rear brake so it is perfect all the time.
Put in the Ride-on sealant/balance stuff and fired it up. The bike has never since I bought it been this smooth to ride, I mean it was like Goldwing smooth as far as the frame ride, still had a little vibe from the engine but that is just character of the bike. I rode 20 miles to Temecula, pulled up to a stop light and it just died, tried to restart it and got one little burble, then nothing, just the engine turning over. Popped the gas line off the carb…got plenty of gas flowing. Put in a brand new set of plugs, still not start. Towed it back home put a new coil on it. still not firing. All the lights work, the speedo is working perfect. Where do I start looking?loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 20, 2016 at 1:07 pm #3560September 20, 2016 at 2:34 pm #3563The stuff I read says the power wire goes to the center connection on the coil, so I figured I would start there and trace the wires back tomorrow.
loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 21, 2016 at 3:03 am #3565I have a 1988 Yamaha TW200 that recently had the same problem. I did everything in the book. Replaced everything possible, plug, coil, relays etc.
After 4 months of no success and ready to sell the bike for parts 1 night I had an idea. I had replaced the sprockets a while back and had to take off the left side motor cover to replace the sprocket. This is also where the electric generator for the bike was. Sure enough I had crimped a wire when I put the case back on. Fixed it and it fired back up. OHHHHHHHHHHH, I was pissed after I spent all that time, money & effort and replaced all those parts.
A non running bike can be a real headache but hang in there. You WILL find the problem and most of the time since our bikes aren’t that old it will be a simple solution, like a loose wire or something.
So after checking the coil double check ALL the wire fittings REAL CLOSE. I had 1 bike that a wire had come loose at the Starter Relay. Fixed that and it fired right up ๐loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 21, 2016 at 5:50 am #3566Thanks for the encouragement. I replaced the coil with a new one…then I started testing. There are 2 white wires with black stripe that connect to the center post on coil. when i put the meter on those wires togather I get .25 volts, when I put ground wire on the front or back terminals I get 0. where do the center white and black wires come from?
If this was a car I would put a wire from thee positive side of the batt to the coil and drive but then the batt does not charge when you do that so it is only temp fix LoL.loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 21, 2016 at 11:17 am #3567Yea I figured it out :laugh: . I found a schematic of the Super Stock ignition installation on the S&S web site in the installation manual(free to download).
I ran a jumper from the + battery to the center coil and the bike started. The power normally goes through the kill switch…the reason I was getting .25 volts is an abnormally high resistance in the kill switch. So that will be an easy fix now that I know what the problem is.
Thanks for all the input and ideas.loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 23, 2016 at 12:37 am #3568Good Deal
HAPPY DAYS ๐ Man I know about electrical and it being a real pain in the A&#.
Glad you got it running.
Time to Ride
Johnloop-single-reply.phpSeptember 23, 2016 at 11:55 am #3570Thanks!, I took it for a ride to day and it is soooOO much fun to ride. Now I need to take some time and get it all polished up for the weekend, I got finger prints and dirt on everything from troubleshooting and fixing. Well at least now I do know how the electrical system is laid out and how gloriously simple but efficient it is. Ride on…keep the Raiders rolling ๐
loop-single-reply.phpSeptember 23, 2016 at 10:43 pm #3571 -
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