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@headjanitor
EditorCall Louie at Active Spring Tech, 626-962-7779. He can build you the trans with upgraded gears for probably about the same as you’re gonna pay for the Rivera. The Rev Tech Trans is a piece of junk.
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@headjanitor
Editorthe 6 speed trans would be an 89-93 FXST application which all of the aftermarket trans are. I would upgrade to the six speed instead of sinking money into the 5. Unfortunately, all the left side drive transmissions on the market, including Baker, have the same gear flaw built into them which caused your trans failure. No transmissions have been produced since around ’08-’09 so there haven’t been any improvements on the design. I still have access to the transmissions and can you a price on it and also a price on having the 2 upgraded gears installed.
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@headjanitor
EditorIf you machine it your chrome will start peeling.
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@headjanitor
EditorThose are Samson Rip Saws
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@headjanitor
EditorThere were six companies overseas making transmissions back then. The last transmissions were produced in 2008. The only transmissions available now or whatever is left of those transmissions. Roadmax was acquired by active spring tech back in 2010. Those parts are available for a lot less money than what Ben is going to charge you. Louie at active spring tech also has the upgraded gears that don’t break like the ones in those transmissions. I think it was 2nd and 5th gear that was prone to breaking because they were made incorrectly. It was a flaw that was in the Baker transmissions that everybody copied back then.
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@headjanitor
EditorReally. Roadmax was owned by Jimmy Lee. He sold Roadmax to Active Spring Tech not Primo back around 2010. Ben may have been having the Rivera Primo trannys made by Roadmax back then and he has what’s left of his inventory but he didn’t end up with Roadmax.
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@headjanitor
EditorTent and gloves sound good lol.
A few other things, make sure your plugs are not fouled. If you’re using your choke for more than 10-15 seconds after the motor lights then your plugs are fouled. Throw in a fresh set of RN12YC plugs and back the timing off a shade. Once the motor fires you need to turn off the choke asap and keep the motor idling with the throttle. It’s a little more effort but it preserves the plugs.loop-single-reply.php
@headjanitor
EditorOdyssey batteries do advertise a high CCA rating. What they don’t tell you is that 545+ CCA rating is only for the first 3-5 seconds. After that the amps drops below 150. So as your volts drop off drastically the amps raise in your starter and fry the solenoid. brushes and eventually the armature. The Odyssey battery works for fuel injected bikes and do best with a 3 phase charging system. Our bikes are carbureted and have single phase charging systems. I recommend upgrading to a 3 phase charging system and installing an Anti Gravity 750 CCA battery.
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@headjanitor
EditorNew plugs will clean up the bottom end. Use RN12YC plugs.
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@headjanitor
EditorJireh starters are made in China. They usually go on sale for $99. They have copper plated steel contacts instead of the full copper contacts. The solenoid, field case, armature and brush plate are all poor quality parts that are not designed to hold up to a 113 cu.in. motor. It’ll work for awhile but will start burning up from the inside out cuz the amps go too high for the components. Perfect starter to throw on the bike when you’re ready to sell it.
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@headjanitor
EditorYour jackshaft bolt should be torqued to 5 ft lbs (60 in lbs). This is basically just getting it snug and folding the lock tab over onto the bolt head. If you’ve tightened it more than that it can cause binding.
A few other things to check:
Make sure your batter is rated at 300 CCA or higher and is NOT an Odyssey brand battery. Keep your bike on a trickle charger whenever possible.
Make sure you still have the dedicated ground cable from the forward starter bolt to the negative post of the battery intact and that all cables are tight.
Check to see if your bike has a 40 amp starter relay or a 30 amp. If you have a 30 you want to upgrade to a 40. Also, if the trigger wire from the relay to the solenoid is smaller than 10 gauge you’ll want to increase that as well.
Jackshafts usually last the life of the bike unless you have a catastrophic failure. Make sure you clean it up before installing and don’t forget to lube the bearing on the outer primary that the shaft rides in.
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@headjanitor
EditorWhenever you go to the HD parts dept for help, realize that the majority of counter help know less about bikes than you. Most of them are more interested in showing off their ink or looking like a “biker”. That said, the Hydraulic brake switches are in the 2015 Drag Specialties Fatbook at the bottom of page 908. You can use the house brand, part# DS-272191 or the one from Standard, part# 2103-0128. I’m not a biker and I found those on my first try. I do have some ink though……..
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@headjanitor
EditorThe handlebar controls on your bike were from Drag Specialties. They were their house brand controls made in Taiwan. The plunger parts were a mix of HD knock off parts from different applications. I’ll find the part number of the kit we used to use. In the future you may want to go with the newer style controls that are direct copy of the HD controls. That way you can use the HD rebuild kit.
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@headjanitor
EditorCheck the plunger in the front master cylinder. Sounds like the o-ring or plunger cover are binding. If the sight glass is on the master cylinder reservoir instead of the cap I’d say you need a rebuild kit for the plunger. Also check if there is DOT 5 brake fluid. Should be purple.
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@headjanitor
EditorSmart Flash Schematic
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