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@sittn-duck
SubscriberThanks!, I took it for a ride to day and it is soooOO much fun to ride. Now I need to take some time and get it all polished up for the weekend, I got finger prints and dirt on everything from troubleshooting and fixing. Well at least now I do know how the electrical system is laid out and how gloriously simple but efficient it is. Ride on…keep the Raiders rolling 🙂
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberYea I figured it out :laugh: . I found a schematic of the Super Stock ignition installation on the S&S web site in the installation manual(free to download).
I ran a jumper from the + battery to the center coil and the bike started. The power normally goes through the kill switch…the reason I was getting .25 volts is an abnormally high resistance in the kill switch. So that will be an easy fix now that I know what the problem is.
Thanks for all the input and ideas.loop-single-reply.php
@sittn-duck
SubscriberThanks for the encouragement. I replaced the coil with a new one…then I started testing. There are 2 white wires with black stripe that connect to the center post on coil. when i put the meter on those wires togather I get .25 volts, when I put ground wire on the front or back terminals I get 0. where do the center white and black wires come from?
If this was a car I would put a wire from thee positive side of the batt to the coil and drive but then the batt does not charge when you do that so it is only temp fix LoL.loop-single-reply.php
@sittn-duck
SubscriberThe stuff I read says the power wire goes to the center connection on the coil, so I figured I would start there and trace the wires back tomorrow.
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberI was told Jesse James has all the jigs to Daytech frames out there in Austin Tx. He would be the person I would contact.
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberNow for the bad news.
Everything was working great. I got the rear tire on and lined up perfect 🙂 . Bled the rear brake so it is perfect all the time.
Put in the Ride-on sealant/balance stuff and fired it up. The bike has never since I bought it been this smooth to ride, I mean it was like Goldwing smooth as far as the frame ride, still had a little vibe from the engine but that is just character of the bike. I rode 20 miles to Temecula, pulled up to a stop light and it just died, tried to restart it and got one little burble, then nothing, just the engine turning over. Popped the gas line off the carb…got plenty of gas flowing. Put in a brand new set of plugs, still not start. Towed it back home put a new coil on it. still not firing. All the lights work, the speedo is working perfect. Where do I start looking?loop-single-reply.php
@sittn-duck
SubscriberThanks for the suggestions I pulled the back off the speedo and the connectors were not real tight. I cleaned the connectors and re seated them, also re seated the wire going into the box as it was pulling the connectors apart. I think it fixed it, I had the coil off and lengthened the wires so they were not so tight. I will trace that front cyl wire next time I have the tank off and make sure it is all good. Thanks for the heads up on that.
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberI found a loose wire, there are 2 wires that look the same color going to the center connection on the coil. One of the wires was barely touching. I attached the two wires then added a short piece of wire so there would be no tension. Hooked it up and it works good again.
My headlight comes on when I turn on the switch like it suppose to also.
I guess age and vibration is going to start showing up in the wiring now. Have to add a digital meter and leads to my tool box. :unsure:loop-single-reply.php
@sittn-duck
SubscriberDid you get it fixed? What was it? mine is doing similar stuff, above 2200 rpm the tach jumps all over and the engine dies but then when rpm drops to around 2 or less it fires up again.
More info…I have noticed recently when I turn on the switch the headlight does not come on. When I start it and give a little gas the light comes on and stays on. What I find strange is the battery turns over the bike and starts it good so I am not thinking it is a bad battery or bad battery connections…would the regulator be causing this or should I go after the stator?
Today I checked the physical connections on the stator and the compensator nut. everything is torqued and has not come loose. The tiiming plate is not loose and has not moved, after I check the battery, the wiring under the tank, the voltages running, change the coil, wires and plugs, what next?
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberI am completely shooting in the dark here but it sounds like it might be heat related if it works for a while and then goes south again.
I think it is in the box behind the starter mounted to the front of the rear fender. I was looking at mine trying to figure how to re position it so it is easier to change or work on but I cannot find anywhere else to put it. Mine looks like either lift the fender to get to it or remove the starter.My ignition switch completely fell apart on the way home tonight so I am going to put a toggle switch in that spot.
Hey Josh are you in SoCal?
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberCall these guys. They are really great and have the answer you need.
http://www.qtmi.com/Contact.htmlloop-single-reply.php
@sittn-duck
SubscriberI took one of my shocks and the bolt, bushing to a off road warehouse and they had bushing they matched up to my shocks. I do not have stock shocks so I went that way.
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberThanks for the Heads up, I did not know this.
READ THE EDIT ON BOTTOM OF PAGE!!!
I was doing some research about Brembo tech and ran across this article, please read it, I have learned not to trust everything on the web but in the second paragraph it says that Dot5 will mess up Brembo calipers and only Dot 3 or 4 should be used :blink:
…
“B. All brembo braking products use natural-rubber base seals, and therefore are INCOMPATIBLE with DOT-5 SILICONE-based brake fluids. DOT- 5 SILICONE-based fluids react with natural-rubber seals to swell them WHICH CAN CAUSE SEVERE PISTON RETRACTION PROBLEMS. There is no cure for problems caused by DOT- 5 use other than complete seals replacement – USE ONLY DOT-3/4 NON-SILICONE TYPE FLUIDS such as CASTROLTM ‘LMA’ in your brembo components.(Yes, we know the cap on the rectangular master cylinders says “DOT 3 – 5 Fluids”-BUT PLEASE NOTE: Silicone DOT- 5 fluids are NOT generally in use in Europe, but Glycol-based “DOT-5.1” fluids ARE. Hence, the “DOT-5″ cap designation). For best braking performance, we recommend changing brake fluid twice a year. If the machine is to be stored in a damp environment (over the winter, say), we recommend installing fresh fluid before and after the storage period. At minimum service levels, glycol brake fluids MUST be completely changed at intervals not to exceed a period of 18 months.”
The full article can be viewed here…
http://cyclebrakes.com/html/brembo_tech_info.htmlEDIT: I was right not trusting the web. I called up QTI and their engineer said the paragraph is only pertaining to race products and what we have is a production based product. The paragraph does not apply to our calipers in anyway and DOT 5 is fine to use. She did strongly recommend not changing fluid types, if your using DOT 5 stay with it. …and thats the rest of the story…
Oh by the way…My brakes operate like Brand New now :cheer:
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@sittn-duck
SubscriberI put the new Wilwood rear brake master cylinder on, I have bled over 20oz of dot5 through the system. I tried both ways…Vacuum Bleeding and pump the pedal old style bleeding.
The pedal goes down way to far and is spongy, in no way can it lock up the rear wheel. Pumping the pedal does not do anything to harden the pedal.
I figure I will put new shoes in the caliper, maybe the old ones got glazed. Any other ideas? When I push the pedal I can hear the pucks making contact but I don’t know if it is some or all of them yet.loop-single-reply.php
@sittn-duck
SubscriberThose guys at performance choppers are really really nice and helpful!
Rarely have I seen a shop with a great bunch of people in it like that shop has.
He fixed up the jetting that came out of Texas and it definitely runs smoother at low speed and has much better throttle response, he said I will probably see a little better mileage out of the tank also.
It dyno’d at 118hp and 161mph :ohmy: which is way more than it will ever see with me on it :laugh:
He must like you Vengeance folks he charged me $60 less than what we agreed on before he started the job.
It’s not a bad ride down there from Hemet so I think I might start having them do the work I can’t do in the garage were I live.
Thanks for the recommendation for Wilwood.loop-single-reply.php
