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@venmc
AdministratorThe click is you are tripping a breaker. Most likely from a ground short. Look for things like pinched wires in the handlebar controls or in the key switch box. Never fun. Never easy to find.
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@venmc
AdministratorWelcome Jeff! That is a Warrior. We don’t have paint codes on the bikes the frames and oil bags came to us powder coated from Daytec then we sent them to Zeak McPeak and he color matched the paint and painted and striped the tins.
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@venmc
AdministratorIf they don’t unscrew (threaded) they are press fit. Were you able to spin them? If yes use a dead blow hammer to knock them off. Sometimes you can even use the fork tube as a slide hammer… hold the lower and pull the fork tube up to knock the cap off. If they wont spin heat them first to break down the loctite.
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@venmc
AdministratorRemove the front axle/wheel, loosen the pinch bolts on the lower tree, unscrew the fork leg from the top tree (its threaded into the top tree that’s why you see no nuts up there), Pull the tube clear from the lower tree. Now you can unscrew the dust cap. I can’t remember the oil quan. It’s a Pro-One 4″ over front-end… if needed you could give them a call. Here’s the cap/seal http://www.pro-one.com/Lower_Legs_s/51.htm
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@venmc
Administratorwow! looks great!
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@venmc
AdministratorIt’s a Danny Gray solo for a Daytec frame. Hi-end seats in Santa Ana, CA. makes them for Danny.
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@venmc
AdministratorManny Thanks
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@venmc
AdministratorTo change the belt you will need to disassemble the entire drive line and get it put back together and properly re-torqued (the most critical is the front pully nut needs to be red Loctited and torqued to 160 ft lbs.)
Jack the rear of the bike up, and put some 2x4s under the tire to hold it up. Remove the outer primary, remove the clutch and front pulley (worst part of the job), remove the inner primary, remove the axle covers, remove the axle adjuster jamb nuts, loosen the axle adjuster screws (to release the axle), remove the axle bolt, tap the axle out to release the wheel, remove the 2x4s to drop the wheel. Install the belt and put it all back together.
Google “replace HD softtail final drive belt”. It’s a real project.
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@venmc
AdministratorThe belt is a gates found it at JP $170
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@venmc
AdministratorI want to do it myself not willing to trust just anyone wrenching on it. Only thing is the clutch,, is that special to remove and replace, I do NOT want a Jack-in-the-box effect
Any videos around? I looked on Rivera site but not sure my transmission typeloop-single-reply.php
@venmc
AdministratorRIVERA/PRIMO DRIVE BELT 1.5″ X 130 TOOTH – PN# 1820-14M-36.83
I’ve broken a couple… only one when I was getting on it the other just split.
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@venmc
AdministratorScrew on. use a “soft wrench” like the Boa Rubber Strap Wrench. The caps have a 1/4-20 screw threaded to the bottom which in turn thread into the top of the riser.
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@venmc
AdministratorThat’s a dust/water cover for the electronic compression release. It’s an S&S product. Lookup S&S CYCLE Compression Release Silicone Solenoid Cap.
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@venmc
AdministratorAwesome!
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@venmc
AdministratorIt was sold as a Vindicator. (Long Fenders, Beach Cruiser Bars, Fat Trees, same frame as the Vendetta). What’s is unique is it was ordered in an automotive paint finish Black Sapphire Pearl Metallic (Dupont M9999 / BMW 475) with a painted frame. It shipped with a 113ci/6-speed and Desperado exhaust and was sold in Orlando FL. Built in May 2004 (05/25/2004)… We have no pictures of the bike. There were a few that snuck out before we could take a picture.
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